tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-63895089563431102512024-02-24T12:46:18.716-08:00J White's GalleryJTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.comBlogger96125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-348782114755628812021-01-27T14:10:00.000-08:002021-01-27T14:10:09.394-08:00HMS Speedy, 14 Gun Brig - Vanguard Models 1:64 - PART ONE<p> After finishing the 1:48 longboat model from Model Shipways, I wanted to step up to a larger and more complex project, but it needed to be something I would have room for in a small apartment. After considering a number of options, I settled on Vanguard Models' 1:64 HMS Speedy. I'd read reviews of the kit, all of which praised the overall design, and of course the Speedy is a very attractive vessel in its own right. It is also a famous one, having made a name for itself under several extremely enterprising commanders at the end of the 18th and beginning of the 19th centuries. Its last and most famous commander, Thomas Cochrane, was one of the boldest, most successful and most colorful naval officers of his age, and his exploits in the Speedy provided the entire plot for Patrick O'Bryan's novel <i>Master and Commander</i>, the first of his long series of Aubrey/ Maturin stories. So there's a lot to like there! </p><p>The kit parts consist of laser cut MDF and pear wood, photo etched brass, and resin castings. The quality of the parts is excellent, and the instructions and plans are extensive. This is a double planked model, the first layer being done in lime wood, and the second in pear. But more on that later. </p><p>To start with, the mdf bulkheads and keel piece are assembled, building the skeleton of the model. I've used Elmers wood glue for this step, because it creates a strong bond, but gives you a little bit of working time. The laser cutting is well done, and the pieces fit together very neatly. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu5VQbuDzCsBcu1aa1EY3ckJDW4bSWqyVfKQovURWU3w-z3DD8H1aYez_JMg4JWLzbui0z1oel2ZEP-FvXNcv81cCmaCs_xSGFY4dJas9jKheoiUlZ0M1ZBVMj4DjZwM202znB4ttOHYU/s2048/20200628_151912.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu5VQbuDzCsBcu1aa1EY3ckJDW4bSWqyVfKQovURWU3w-z3DD8H1aYez_JMg4JWLzbui0z1oel2ZEP-FvXNcv81cCmaCs_xSGFY4dJas9jKheoiUlZ0M1ZBVMj4DjZwM202znB4ttOHYU/s320/20200628_151912.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Next, the lower deck pieces are put in place. The lower deck sits at the correct scale distance below the upper deck, so if you wanted to go the extra mile and create a detailed interior, it would make that easier to do. But that's a bit beyond me at this point. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLZCU-sBoVzWylY3d51SQuZILcdbRZ0oX0OdVbSVZL94VpxHf7Ysu36CIZas7WHXj06kn41FH7u5V72Y3cLXAUn_CnrvVziiXdXPLNtMwsmCy6YTmW1b2IxGnNYrQbYMQis9nvhJvfqNc/s2048/20200630_121836.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLZCU-sBoVzWylY3d51SQuZILcdbRZ0oX0OdVbSVZL94VpxHf7Ysu36CIZas7WHXj06kn41FH7u5V72Y3cLXAUn_CnrvVziiXdXPLNtMwsmCy6YTmW1b2IxGnNYrQbYMQis9nvhJvfqNc/s320/20200630_121836.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>You can see a number of extra pieces that slot into place at the bow, to make it easier to anchor the planking around the tighter curves there. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhekKm3-1Zy_2FNE895AvEhDe2GeOfWnKuiSduMwyWJxvKyrP9HHxW4pTjNxoN2JrEddTFNZ54T1LfokYmWWJkWH0iG38obsHbGP5RJUqcomExOyJa2LQ4h2Fvv6_T7YtIlTKR0-p09fs4/s2048/20200630_121903.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhekKm3-1Zy_2FNE895AvEhDe2GeOfWnKuiSduMwyWJxvKyrP9HHxW4pTjNxoN2JrEddTFNZ54T1LfokYmWWJkWH0iG38obsHbGP5RJUqcomExOyJa2LQ4h2Fvv6_T7YtIlTKR0-p09fs4/s320/20200630_121903.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Then the deck supports are glued in place, running across and down the length of the hull. These pieces also help make sure the bulkheads are properly aligned. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj02R0abZAWu8CcHRcPJmHcKZimYuKT3Nu_BNkL83CGiCJY5wu6CTqGqzUqYmi8jTWOzulZkSCKVWFqHfnhpyZUy4g9NlsFriaaf1HVM-ZY9lU6PlOa37yhQlX4XjbYHCTkLYS2gYG6P6o/s2048/20200703_150921.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj02R0abZAWu8CcHRcPJmHcKZimYuKT3Nu_BNkL83CGiCJY5wu6CTqGqzUqYmi8jTWOzulZkSCKVWFqHfnhpyZUy4g9NlsFriaaf1HVM-ZY9lU6PlOa37yhQlX4XjbYHCTkLYS2gYG6P6o/s320/20200703_150921.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Here you can see the false upper deck in place. It is laser cut from some thin but very tough plywood. Eventually it will get covered with another layer of wood to replicate the deck planking. At the stern you can see the supports for the transom. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCDCaKBVaoVyNYOmM37H3Lvn3UzEmtd-06ncpRV9ko1Ubv0cNfDyaLdUEZ6TsW6sgTJ-J7yB4pvRG41CbrwwIFxveGZALtDY0Cx7I09WaKcdeGMgElC2tUy1SIffCAardka1Zn11SpQmI/s2048/20200705_151709.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCDCaKBVaoVyNYOmM37H3Lvn3UzEmtd-06ncpRV9ko1Ubv0cNfDyaLdUEZ6TsW6sgTJ-J7yB4pvRG41CbrwwIFxveGZALtDY0Cx7I09WaKcdeGMgElC2tUy1SIffCAardka1Zn11SpQmI/s320/20200705_151709.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>And here is a shot of the transom pieces being clamped in place while the glue sets. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ8oI9dBzdw_AYFxW1SVIyK_lN_IMRq2LrdvScPG4t9owJfqLRcTnQSrLEHZRFEayrRzR9VEs3c5Fj2lC9fBXEE70MI1Zuaar0CRyaaOKb1BqjFnSB8dEpFXrkX0py0zvSq6MTI-nmXQA/s2048/20200706_132816.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ8oI9dBzdw_AYFxW1SVIyK_lN_IMRq2LrdvScPG4t9owJfqLRcTnQSrLEHZRFEayrRzR9VEs3c5Fj2lC9fBXEE70MI1Zuaar0CRyaaOKb1BqjFnSB8dEpFXrkX0py0zvSq6MTI-nmXQA/s320/20200706_132816.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>At the bow the inner stem is glued in place. The slots in it will make it easier to anchor the first layer of planking. The sides of the bulkheads need to be fared, or beveled, to enable the planking to sit flush against them. This a time consuming process, but is essential to getting smooth curves in the hull. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOyhcgH8p30_4NnQEBZTy_S5u7ZwUvJ-wJG4IQGRJHsWe8mZrIbi3gJU4oxSOxSeoOsbaf-zxZ3ixCs6YKSSQSSrXVWPIho8qaXkS4MtJKKmeERg33RvAlzf2OW4MHpcDUrU6bXRxPaSg/s2048/20200802_135934.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOyhcgH8p30_4NnQEBZTy_S5u7ZwUvJ-wJG4IQGRJHsWe8mZrIbi3gJU4oxSOxSeoOsbaf-zxZ3ixCs6YKSSQSSrXVWPIho8qaXkS4MtJKKmeERg33RvAlzf2OW4MHpcDUrU6bXRxPaSg/s320/20200802_135934.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Next the gunport patterns are glued into place along the sides of the deck. These are thin plywood pieces, and were soaked in boiling water for a while to make them more pliable. Fitting them was definitely the most challenging step of the model so far, as they have to follow a complex curve. They didn't come out perfectly, but between sanding and later covering them in planking, inside and out, errors and imperfections hopefully will not be too visible. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTwKKk73GIrUTPvWYZ_PJ0EVULkhG5pZzONvLd3PqqkSmgqFAYiEVvInb-0ew0DiQTDRPteZfee0Xk-7GptlJnCMoM-eXM1ThSnC58Lc-JdAnGMHoK6niVu98bxhqZQHtZmOLmBSAMNRQ/s2048/20200808_154000.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTwKKk73GIrUTPvWYZ_PJ0EVULkhG5pZzONvLd3PqqkSmgqFAYiEVvInb-0ew0DiQTDRPteZfee0Xk-7GptlJnCMoM-eXM1ThSnC58Lc-JdAnGMHoK6niVu98bxhqZQHtZmOLmBSAMNRQ/s320/20200808_154000.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Here you can see all of the gunport patterns in place. The model is starting to take shape! Next up will be the beginning of the first planking layer. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjK1OvXMscjvmiB6mzgXPR1EfxjE1N4LSZUUVdmqorzfm27tBFsfIZeK-Anfz-U8J2cQQacIQE4F-9ioQFDZjAOs_UVnRf9Z6wbXDG05L-F33eUtGsmXjAUxOXrFBt5KVktr7zjqHbTNs/s2048/20200810_102831.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjK1OvXMscjvmiB6mzgXPR1EfxjE1N4LSZUUVdmqorzfm27tBFsfIZeK-Anfz-U8J2cQQacIQE4F-9ioQFDZjAOs_UVnRf9Z6wbXDG05L-F33eUtGsmXjAUxOXrFBt5KVktr7zjqHbTNs/s320/20200810_102831.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p>JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-90378282848617491622020-07-29T08:53:00.001-07:002020-07-29T08:54:05.263-07:0018th Century Longboat - Model Shipways 1:48 - Part 5 - FinishedHere, finally, are some views of the finished model. I have mounted it on steel rods set into holes drilled in the keel of the boat, and it sits on a cherry base. See the end of this post for information about where the base and a custom made display case came from. The 1/48 figures are white metal castings from Amati.<br />
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This kit was a tremendous amount of fun, and I would recommend it to anyone with an interest in the subject. It's not a beginner build, despite its small size, but it's a great opportunity to learn wooden ship modeling techniques in a manageable project, and to really take your time to practice doing it right. (Or rather, if you're like me, to learn from your many mistakes!)<br />
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If anyone is ever looking for a custom-made display case, I can't recommend Michael Jekubik of Chameleon Woodcrafting highly enough. Mike does beautiful work, as seen in the case I had made for this model. You can see more of his work here:<br />
<a href="https://chameleonwoodcrafting.com/">https://chameleonwoodcrafting.com/</a><br />
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<br />JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-49374307096081408842020-07-26T22:33:00.001-07:002020-07-26T22:33:46.282-07:0018th Century Longboat - Model Shipways 1:48 - Part 4In the last post, I left off after adding most of the internal detail to the boat. Here we'll pick up by adding he bowsprit. The piece tapers toward its forward end, and is fixed in place by two brass pieces, painted black to look like iron. The oarlocks have also been added in. These are just thin metal rods glued into small holes and painted red.<br />
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You can see in this shot the traveler has been added to the stern of the boat - the black metal rod to which the boom sheet will be attached.<br />
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Here is a shot of the mast, the boom and the gaff.<br />
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The rudder has some decorative elements on it, matching the friezes along the sides of the boat.<br />
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Here are some of the accessories that will sit inside the boat. A bucket (not included with the kit) a second handle for the windlass, the anchor (made of white metal) and the oars. The kit comes with 10 oars, but I'm only including four of them, so that they don't hide the interior details.<br />
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Here is a test mock-up of the boat sitting on a base, atop a couple of steel rods. The mast has been set in place but not glued. </div>
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And here the mast has been glued in place, the boom is attached to it by a small metal hook in its end, and the rigging has been started. I've attached the shrouds and the boom halyard and sheet.<br />
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The kit comes with its own deadeyes and blocks, but I purchased new ones from Syren Ship Model Co. They are a nice upgrade in quality, and I think well worth the additional expense.<br />
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Next time, rather than go through the rigging process step by step, I'll post pictures of the finished model.<br />
<br />JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-20454854603525310982020-07-20T11:36:00.001-07:002020-07-20T11:37:42.236-07:0018th Century Longboat - Model Shipways 1:48 - Part 3<br />
Moving right along with the longboat build, it's time to remove the inner bulkheads. These are laser cut in such a way that you just need to file off the connections at the top of the frame, and then carefully snap the remaining connection at the bottom middle. Then you can remove the bulkhead and sand the insides. It takes quite a lot of sanding actually, as the frames all need to be thinned out significantly, and the inside edges need to be faired as well. Here is a shot of the hull with the bulkheads removed and the sanding underway.<br />
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Next I added the caprails to the top edges of the hull. To make these, you trace the outline of the hull onto some thin basswood sheet to get the right curve, measure out a small distance for the other edge, cut and install. The rail is much too wide at that point, but then you sand it thinner. Note that the frames need to be thin enough not to extend beyond the inside edge of the caprail. I removed and scrapped my first rail because I had not made the frames thin enough.<br />
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Next I added the decorative friezes. These are printed on paper, sprayed with matte varnish, cut out and carefully glued in place. Then a thin wooden strip is glued along the bottom edge. You can see in this photo the waterline has been marked in pencil.<br />
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Here you can see the stern decoration, and the waterline has been painted white.<br />
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Flipping the boat over, we have another view of the decorative friezes and the painted waterline.<br />
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Next I painted the caprail and the inside of the top planks red.<br />
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Then I added the floor boards in the bottom of the boat.<br />
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Here I've added the stern and bow platforms.<br />
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After the platforms, it was time to add the thwarts, the windlass, the knees, and the eyebolts in the bottom of the boat. At this point the body of the boat is nearly finished, and next time I'll post pictures of the masts and other details.<br />
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<br />JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-46349745288003839882020-07-13T08:42:00.001-07:002020-07-13T08:42:28.729-07:0018th Century Longboat - Model Shipways 1:48 - Part 2<br />
Picking up where we left last time: all of the frames of the longboat were installed on the keel, and the skeleton was complete. After fairing was complete and the sides of the frames were properly shaped, it was time to begin the planking process.<br />
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To begin with, I returned the model to my improvised jig to hold it in position while I marked the position of the top planks. Viewed from the side, the plank will dip slightly in the middle, rising toward the bow and stern. I took measurements off the plans and made marks on each bulkhead as a guide for gluing on the planks.<br />
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The first planks to be installed are the uppermost two on each side. I immersed the planks in boiling water to make them pliable, bent them and clamped them on the hull while they dried. Then I attached them with superglue, being careful to be as neat as I could be with the glue, since the inside surface of the planks will also be visible. Many people will prefer slower curing wood glue, but for me superglue is ideal because I can apply it to a few bulkheads at a time, secure the plank, and then move on, without having to clamp the entire plank and wait for the glue to dry. But it's very much a question of personal preference.<br />
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Another view of those first two planks, giving a sense of the slight curve they follow. Note that the top of the upper plank is not even with the top of the bulkheads.<br />
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The next planks added are the bottom two on each side. These have to follow a more complex path, curving and twisting. They also have to be shaped more severely in the bow. After these are installed, I followed the instructions by alternating between adding upper and lower planks. The ones in the middle need to be shaped more, as the width is not consistent at each location. They are thinner in the bow and stern, fatter in the middle. Also all planks need to have their edges bevelled slightly to allow them to butt up against their neighbors tightly.<br />
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We're making progress!<br />
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An overhead shot of the hull as the planking nears completion.<br />
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Now all of the planks have been added, the little triangular stern filler piece has been added, and the excess length of the keel trimmed off. Overall, I made some errors with the planking, and it didn't all fit together as snugly as I might have wished. But I added a small amount of filler made from a mixture of white glue and sawdust in a couple places, and did a lot of sanding. I can live with the results. Also a lot of the outside of the hull will be covered by the paint of the waterline, so I will have opportunities to hide some of my mistakes.<br />
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And here is a top view of the finished planking.<br />
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Next it will be time to remove the inner bulkheads, do a great deal of sanding, and start in on the interior details. </div>
<br />JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-54526357037894523682020-07-07T14:50:00.001-07:002020-07-10T10:08:45.213-07:0018th Century Longboat - Model Shipways 1:48 - Part 1Recently I've been working on something a little larger than the 1:1200 ship models I usually build. Model Shipways' 18th Century Longboat is a 1:48 scale plank-on-frame model of the largest ship's boat that would have been carried on a ship of the line in the mid 1700s. It's a great little kit, with laser cut frames and planking in basswood, and various fittings, and I thought it might be interesting to show the steps of construction. It has been a long time since I attempted a model of this sort, and this was a fun foray back into this particular part of the hobby.<br />
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This shot is not my own, but shows the contents of the kit. You can see some of the laser cut basswood sheets, and two sheets of rolled up plans.<br />
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To begin with, the keel, false keel and stem are glued together - but first the edges of the false keel are sanded so that where it joins the keel there is a groove, into which the ends of the planks will run. (I actually stained these pieces before glueing them, but it was something of a moot point - only about an inch of them stem will be visible when everything is built and painted).<br />
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I built myself a crude little jig from some spare wood left over from the laser cut sheets, to help me hold the keel and align the bulkheads as they were glued on. They need to be properly squared against the keel, and the top edges all need to be level. Or at least as level as you can make them. If you mess that up, you just have to compensate with more sanding in later steps.<br />
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Here you can see all of the bulkheads have been added to the keel, and the skeleton of the boat, so to speak, is complete. You can see each bulkhead is numbered to make sure it goes in just the right spot.<br />
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A top view of the bulkheads.<br />
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I glued toothpicks onto the tops of the bulkheads to help keep them steady as I worked on the hull. They are relatively fragile, and can split easily. These bulkheads are laser-cut through most of their length, with the centers only attached on the bottom and the tops of the sides. That way once the model is planked you can remove the centers, leaving a hollow hull.<br />
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The bulkheads are all perpendicular to the keel, and the sides of the bulkheads are themselves squared. That means that those edges don't follow the intended contours of the finished hull, and they need to be sanded, or faired, to let the planks lie flat. A lot of sanding ensues.<br />
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Here is a close up showing the fairing process under way. you can see on the left of the pictures the edges of the bulkheads have started to take on the proper contours. On the right, the edges have not been touched yet and still show the charring of the laser cutting process.<br />
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And that's the first part. Next up, after the fairing is completed, it will be time to begin the planking.<br />
<br />JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-44474530956573008072019-10-30T07:29:00.001-07:002019-10-30T07:29:40.742-07:00The Battle of Valcour Island, October 11th 1776My visit to the Smithsonian National Museum of American History back in August, in particular the exhibit on the gunboat Philadelphia, gave me a little bit of an obsession, and I was determined to mount a game of Valcour Island as close to the 243rd anniversary as I could.<br />
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Why? Well, it's a pretty fascinating campaign and battle. After the American retreat from Quebec in the spring of 1776, both sides knew the British forces in Canada would be attempting to move south to link up with their forces in lower NY state, and that Lake Champlain would be the vital highway for the move. After all, there were little in the way of actual roads in the wilderness up there, and the lake is 120 miles of open water. The Americans seized or destroyed any vessels on the lake they could get their hands on to deny them to the British, and both sides undertook a rapid construction program to build up their naval forces. It was essential for the Americans to contest the lake and buy as much time as they could before the British could join their forces together. Both sides worked tirelessly through the summer months, and by October 9th the British were ready to begin their move down the lake.<br />
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Benedict Arnold had been given overall command of the American forces on the lake, and had several problems on his hands. His forces were undermanned, they were largely inexperienced, and they were significantly outgunned by their opponents. To attempt to fight the British on the open water in a battle of movement seemed to him to exacerbate all of his disadvantages, and so he determined on a strategy to try to offset his weaknesses. He would anchor most of his vessels in the narrow strait between the shore of the lake and Valcour Island, where the British would not see them as they sailed south, with the wind directly behind them. Then, when a significant portion of the British forces had passed well below the island, Arnold would move down to the southern tip of the island with a few of his vessels to make his presence known. He anticipated that the British would move to attack him right away, but that many of their armed vessels would have difficulty working their way back up wind to get into the fight - as indeed they did in the actual event, when the two sides met on October 11th, 1776. So Arnold gets his wish, and doesn't have to fight the full British force all at the same time. And the battle makes for an interesting, asymmetrical engagement and a challenging tactical situation. I won't go into the historical progress of the battle here, but instead just focus on the game we played.<br />
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I chose the rule set Flying Colors: Serpents of the Seas for the battle. A hex and counter game from GMT, it's the best system I know of for fighting large actions in a few hours, and is simple enough for beginners to learn the basics relatively quickly. The vessels at Valcour Island are all pretty small, but in this scenario there are 34 of them, and so any system with more detail would have added many hours to the game.<br />
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I made a few modifications to the rules, trying to improve some of the historical details. For example: the scenario set up has Arnold onboard the Royal Savage, but sources I read indicate that he had transferred his command to the galley Trumbull before the battle. This is also good for the American player, as Trumbull is further away from the British gunboats, and is a more survivable vessel for him. I also forbade any ship from using full sails. I felt otherwise the larger British ships would be in action much too soon, which historically was not what happened. And if the British won the initiative while at full sail and moved first, the British gunboats would be in among the fleeing American vessels instantly. And I tweaked the firing arcs of the gunboats. The game gives them a huge penalty for firing straight ahead, which is bizarre given that a 1 gun gunboat mounts its only gun in the bow. I also tweaked the bonus ships get for firing while at anchor, as it seems illogical to me. Ships at anchor bob around more, not less, without the relatively consistent force of the wind pushing on their sails. As a compromise, I gave them a +1 rather than a +2 as the rules prescribe.<br />
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It took me a while to build up my collection of little gunboats, and in fact most of them were not really finished at the time of the game. I'll post detailed photos of the models as I complete them fully. They're a mixture of 1:1200 models from Langton and GHQ. Meanwhile, the construction of the terrain ate up a fair amount of time. Rather than purchase a pre made terrain mat with hexes, I chose to make my own tiles, so that I could scale the hexes exactly as I wanted, to make transport easier, and to give me a lot of flexibility. (I was also hoping it would be a little cheaper, but that was a bit naive...)<br />
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The water tiles are graphics taken from a digital map file, printed on 8.5 x 11 card stock, hand laminated with adhesive sheets, and trimmed on the sides so that they interlock. They are attached together with masking tape on the seams on the back. The island and shore and shallows sections are made of the same materials, trimmed to the proper contours. The land pieces were hit with green spray paint, and then covered with lichen to represent foliage.<br />
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In the photo below, the shore of the lake is along the left edge of the map, and there in the center is Valcour Island itself. The lighter blue hexes on the left by the land represent shallow water.<br />
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The American gunboats and other vessels are anchored in a line across the channel between the shore and the island, except for the three galleys, Trumbull (which Benedict Arnold is using as his flagship), Congress and Washington, and the schooner Royal Savage. In this view, the latter have already come about to flee from the line of approaching British gunboats, which are trying to surge forward and overwhelm them. On the far right side of the image, just barely visible, is the base of the British schooner Carleton, commanded by Lt. James Dacres. It has just entered the map, and will be followed over the next couple turns by the schooner Maria (flagship of Captain Thomas Pringle, who is commanding the British naval forces in the battle) and the sloop of war Inflexible.<br />
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Here is a closer look at the American line. In the first line are 6 gunboats, and the single masted sloop Lee, closest to the camera, in the shallows. Behind are two more gunboats, the small schooner Revenge, and the single masted sloop Enterprise, in the shallows. She is acting as a hospital ship, and in this scenario is not allowed to move until fired on.<br />
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A closer view of the American galleys and Royal Savage fleeing before the advance of the British gunboats.<br />
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Here you can see the gunboats have been pursuing the American vessels for several turns. A few gunboats have struck their colors already after suffering damage, but Royal Savage has been hit a number of times, and is in danger of striking as well. On the right, Carleton, Maria and Inflexible have moved up behind the gunboats.<br />
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The anchored American vessels are remaining in position, waiting for the British to come to them, as per Arnold's plan. </div>
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Here, the British gunboats have pressed further forward, though four of them are out of commission. Royal Savage has struck its colors, and has suffered so many hits to its hull that it is awash, in danger of sinking. The three American galleys have nearly reached the line of anchored vessels, while the British schooners and sloop of war are moving up by the island.<br />
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The following three images are different views of the same moment in the game. <br />
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Having reached the line of American gunboats, the American galleys, rather than pass through to try to find a safer spot, tack and pass in front of the line. As they do so, the British gunboats swarm up at close range. At the right of the picture, the British schooner Carleton trades fire with the American gunboats, and suffers significant damage. Before long she will strike her colors. Just south of her, the schooner Maria moves up to get into the fight, while Inflexible lags behind.<br />
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HMS Carleton has struck its colors, but HMS Maria has gotten into the action, and the galley Washington has struck as well. Congress and Trumbull are in bad shape. The yellow chits mark vessels that are in danger of striking, and that includes several more American vessels.<br />
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We were running short of time at this point, and it was decided to call the game. With the Maria getting into the fight, the Inflexible moving up in pristine condition, and most of the American vessels in a bad way, the British declared victory. Benedict Arnold has been captured, and while Carleton still will most likely not be able to link up with British forces further south in NY, it being so late in the season, we can only speculate what the loss of Arnold will mean for the battle of Saratoga and the cause of the Revolution.<br />
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<br />JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-24895998878981695542019-08-13T14:19:00.000-07:002019-08-13T14:19:30.580-07:00Ship Models of the American History Museum, Washington DCI've been to the American History museum a number of times over the years, and always love gawking at the maritime models. Recently I had another opportunity to do so, and I thought this time I might put together a little photo tour of some of my favorites for those who aren't able to visit the museum any time soon.<br />
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The exhibit covers American maritime history, civilian and military, from colonial days to the present, with a large number of ship models of every kind, as well as other artifacts and, in several instances, original vessels. By far the most valuable piece of maritime history in the museum is the gunboat Philadelphia, which sank on Lake Champlain in 1776.<br />
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I've focused primarily on the age of sail, as that is where my primary interest lies, though I've included a few photos of later subjects as well. This is, of course, just a small sampling of just one exhibit.<br />
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In all cases, explanatory plaques precede the photo of the model being described.<br />
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I thought I might try my luck at privateering...<br />
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But it wasn't quite as glorious as it was cracked up to be.<br />
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<br />JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-4305280238523494342019-05-17T11:38:00.003-07:002019-05-17T11:54:14.047-07:00HMS Shannon - GHQ 1:1200Well, I'm not sure exactly where the time went, but I was surprised, looking back at my old posts, to find that it's been well over two years since I last posted photos of a ship model. Two years! Obviously I couldn't let that stand, so I pulled out a kit that I had left about half completed and got to work again.<br />
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Here is GHQ's 1:1200 model of HMS Shannon, the famous 38 (nominally) gun Leda-class frigate. She was launched in 1806, and achieved her greatest fame on the 1st of June, 1813, when her captain, Philip Broke, issued a challenge to Captain James Lawrence of the USS Chesapeake. As Broke wrote in his challenge:<br />
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<i>As the Chesapeake appears now ready for sea, I request you will do me the favour to meet the Shannon with her, ship to ship, to try the fortune of our respective flags. The Shannon mounts twenty-four guns upon her broadside and one light boat-gun; 18 pounders upon her main deck, and 32-pounder carronades upon her quarter-deck and forecastle; and is manned with a complement of 300 men and boys, beside thirty seamen, boys, and passengers, who were taken out of recaptured vessels lately. I entreat you, sir, not to imagine that I am urged by mere personal vanity to the wish of meeting the Chesapeake, or that I depend only upon your personal ambition for your acceding to this invitation. We have both noble motives. You will feel it as a compliment if I say that the result of our meeting may be the most grateful service I can render to my country; and I doubt not that you, equally confident of success, will feel convinced that it is only by repeated triumphs in even combats that your little navy can now hope to console your country for the loss of that trade it can no longer protect. Favour me with a speedy reply. We are short of provisions and water, and cannot stay long here.</i><br />
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In fact Lawrence never received the challenge, as before the boat carrying it could make its way into Boston harbor, Chesapeake was already under way, sailing out to meet the British frigate. The encounter lasted less than 15 minutes, and was to be one of the bloodiest single-ship duels of the era. By the end, the British crew had stormed aboard the American vessel and taken the ship in hand to hand combat. Chesapeake lost about 60 men killed and as many wounded. Lawrence himself was among the dead. Shannon had 23 killed and 56 wounded. Broke was among the wounded, and though he defied expectation and did not succumb to the saber wound to his head, he never commanded another ship. <div style="text-align: left;">
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For this model, I've made my own bowsprit from brass rods, and also replaced the topgallant masts with brass, to make them thinner. The ratlines and sea base are from Langton. Rigging is done with nylon paint brush bristles. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-51233476855074389352018-10-02T15:25:00.000-07:002018-10-02T15:25:09.548-07:0015mm WWI Casualties and Accessories<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I'm in the process of running a 15mm WWI campaign at the local club, and now that I have about a platoon's worth of infantry for the French and Germans complete, I'm focusing on adding some more special pieces. The rules I'm using are TFL's "Through the Mud and the Blood", and each player has a particular big man who is his own unique character, with a bunch of detail elaborated beyond the base rules. </div>
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When ordinary soldiers are killed or wounded, the game doesn't track them any further. But when a big man is hit, he might soldier on in a reduced capacity, be gravely wounded and have to be extricated from the fight, or be killed outright. When a character is gravely wounded, the cry goes out for stretcher bearers, and these poor gentlemen have to make their way forward under fire and try to reach the injured man. </div>
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These are Peter Pig's 15mm WWI German stretcher bearers. Each team consists of 3 pieces, the two bearers and the separate stretcher. The pack contains two such teams, as well as two extra stretchers. They don't offer a French set, but I'm thinking I can replace the German heads with French ones and just fudge the rest in the painting. In 15mm it should look alright. But we'll see. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5jq090MolT95FZ9qebt0EtfExvPTivgsZch2qqz8qnNqVMAYXLd9zPNRgacMpEiETgZVZxv7oyDfE60l_Yko522WfF6gdSBrR8FPuuKF3BTxJuQkjTUeL8PXYDGEagclIe5824CQJYTE/s1600/DSC_1154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1079" data-original-width="1600" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5jq090MolT95FZ9qebt0EtfExvPTivgsZch2qqz8qnNqVMAYXLd9zPNRgacMpEiETgZVZxv7oyDfE60l_Yko522WfF6gdSBrR8FPuuKF3BTxJuQkjTUeL8PXYDGEagclIe5824CQJYTE/s320/DSC_1154.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Who are they trying to reach? Casualties of course. Here is a set of Peter Pig's WWI German casualty markers. There are three different pieces in a pack of 8.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLvpCaeH5Sx9Z154yXGTXqiaqhuUBPe7Lm8CTQfssvgSKPsFcipYevIhUiTLKYz8wE2QynKeyLnnVwPAxuroqTJGY_MeVnxhF-zy5_W3YsqIg7p3dYeHUuJvbzzYYkQJvhJFyGVkXULm8/s1600/DSC_1157.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="847" data-original-width="1600" height="169" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLvpCaeH5Sx9Z154yXGTXqiaqhuUBPe7Lm8CTQfssvgSKPsFcipYevIhUiTLKYz8wE2QynKeyLnnVwPAxuroqTJGY_MeVnxhF-zy5_W3YsqIg7p3dYeHUuJvbzzYYkQJvhJFyGVkXULm8/s320/DSC_1157.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This isn't quite enough to represent the average failed attack (or successful one, come to think of it) which tends to look a lot worse, but it's a start.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqaBhkyqLYizHb_enhmw_LMP-oPF1q4MNz7mk_xwc8lZg8RuvluPK-sz0ImHARTeeU2iGh4wIQeT45ccBCSwn2BBpdp1Zlohh52IWQTPwHhbHuoS0IRonTOlv_ihh94v0vkurboVNhZWA/s1600/DSC_1158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="771" data-original-width="1600" height="154" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqaBhkyqLYizHb_enhmw_LMP-oPF1q4MNz7mk_xwc8lZg8RuvluPK-sz0ImHARTeeU2iGh4wIQeT45ccBCSwn2BBpdp1Zlohh52IWQTPwHhbHuoS0IRonTOlv_ihh94v0vkurboVNhZWA/s320/DSC_1158.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Of course, any WWI project is going to need a healthy (or rather an intensely unhealthy) amount of barbed wire, so I've begun work on my wire sections. I've got about 4 feet so far, and this is the prototype I'm working from.<br />
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The base is made from sheet styrene cut into 4" x 2" pieces. To that I glue cut down stumps of toothpicks for the posts. Then I paint white glue over the base and cover it in a generous amount of sand. I also glue a few pebbles around the base to represent larger stones. Then the base is undercoated a dark brown and drybrushed with a few lighter shades. The posts are painted a light khaki color and then given a thick dark brown wash.<br />
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The wire itself is from Gale Force 9. At first it is bright silver and very new looking, so I soak it for a few days in a plastic container full of vinegar and salt. That rusts it up perfectly.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixznGZlKcPixu5FGuRQFBVj-UyQr_jagBxxMyvZaaY18zuH7iW8nbx_XlMC-OyKJE-tQJIZXJCBM2VXqPgB8AxhXs0xI7OD8naqx3vUXqXZ2Why-1HYM6IzAtBmGaLokQYD1nznSUcIsw/s1600/DSC_1161.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="972" data-original-width="1600" height="194" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixznGZlKcPixu5FGuRQFBVj-UyQr_jagBxxMyvZaaY18zuH7iW8nbx_XlMC-OyKJE-tQJIZXJCBM2VXqPgB8AxhXs0xI7OD8naqx3vUXqXZ2Why-1HYM6IzAtBmGaLokQYD1nznSUcIsw/s320/DSC_1161.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I'll probably add more wire to each piece to give it a more tangled look, but for right now I'm focusing on churning these out. From the profile it looks a little more gnarly.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-MorvI1cuDElyS-i38gXcEvxwsCVAaZcMFL2j2wTMYmCE9ZpFBPOzKBK-pXghvKG-W5kwD2gET2IGfV0S3t3-Zq9S8Lxi0eEsiNkvjpC4X8QAjljVjV-mvWiOINrCwdxEPwLfYgOedNs/s1600/DSC_1162.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="825" data-original-width="1600" height="165" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-MorvI1cuDElyS-i38gXcEvxwsCVAaZcMFL2j2wTMYmCE9ZpFBPOzKBK-pXghvKG-W5kwD2gET2IGfV0S3t3-Zq9S8Lxi0eEsiNkvjpC4X8QAjljVjV-mvWiOINrCwdxEPwLfYgOedNs/s320/DSC_1162.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Wire or no wire, the attack must go forward. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfy_IYNvaVRMjpYPKlzzkKu2XpYBTbd0MpHxealetylEVE4lojoat6QLHmoVod9iwnznbBt8ziT-bIY_lfRQw_KcYqsNi19uZ_65uwu0mpVvc9nJwvyW-L2UCNHFbiG7Fcx74Fg5ApjVc/s1600/DSC_1167.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1600" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfy_IYNvaVRMjpYPKlzzkKu2XpYBTbd0MpHxealetylEVE4lojoat6QLHmoVod9iwnznbBt8ziT-bIY_lfRQw_KcYqsNi19uZ_65uwu0mpVvc9nJwvyW-L2UCNHFbiG7Fcx74Fg5ApjVc/s320/DSC_1167.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-25847354947514579202018-07-25T14:02:00.003-07:002018-07-25T14:02:45.788-07:0015mm WWI UpdateI haven't been posting a lot lately, just because other factors have been getting in the way, but I have slowly been chipping away at my ongoing 15mm WWI project. Here's a quick look at a few more figures that are ready to go over the top.<br />
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First up, here are five more French riflemen from Peter Pig. The only modification to any of these was the addition of a scope to the weapon of one of the crouching riflemen, and the removal of his bayonet. He will be a designated sharpshooter for his team. The "Through the Mud and the Blood" rules allow a designated figure to operate as a normal rifleman until called upon to operate as a sniper, at which point some special rules apply.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJZUA8ch4qQdpK95RooFQ_RCj3CG7Jdeivscdry-1lC8endlnFhLK0yvqIZrwX-2k4e4etEBi9sLRBNX8rhp1epQwcBqKdNDfv7kmrwUcBEWoZByxXD4hPTY7f6fCWfhkymW6qKGZ7GgM/s1600/DSC_1112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="717" data-original-width="1600" height="143" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJZUA8ch4qQdpK95RooFQ_RCj3CG7Jdeivscdry-1lC8endlnFhLK0yvqIZrwX-2k4e4etEBi9sLRBNX8rhp1epQwcBqKdNDfv7kmrwUcBEWoZByxXD4hPTY7f6fCWfhkymW6qKGZ7GgM/s320/DSC_1112.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Next, four grenadiers from Irregular miniatures. Some of you may recall an earlier post I did about adjusting Irregular WWI Germans to fit in better with their Peter Pig counterparts. For these guys, I just removed the pedestal under them. No heads were removed and swapped, as they fit in better than the Germans did.<br />
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You can see the variety of poses is not great. I bent some of the arms around a little to add some minor variety, but that's not much. The sculpting quality in general is not quite up to the Peter Pigs, but they're not bad figures, and it was a quick way to add dedicated grenadiers to the unit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPbGdpzvmA3MRCunZHmoKOVhmUWBPG_aT0UjdiP9to_mbXOcEezMOmrijcDBO17IUazZD-L00NmAXFcXzWT8c5l_VqQiCzfjpaoIq-EMPkQngsgFwdeprzZEyeQKQDeKwo9SaVW_3VN3Q/s1600/DSC_1113.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="715" data-original-width="1600" height="142" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPbGdpzvmA3MRCunZHmoKOVhmUWBPG_aT0UjdiP9to_mbXOcEezMOmrijcDBO17IUazZD-L00NmAXFcXzWT8c5l_VqQiCzfjpaoIq-EMPkQngsgFwdeprzZEyeQKQDeKwo9SaVW_3VN3Q/s320/DSC_1113.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And lastly, here are five more Germans. The first, second and fifth (from left to right) are from Irregular Miniatures, and had their pedestals removed, their heads swapped with Peter Pig heads, their arms bent around and, in the case of the second from the left, a pistol added to one hand and a grenade to the other.<br />
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The figure in the middle is from Peter Pig's WW2 line. I removed the pockets from his chest to make his jacket more appropriate for WW1. You can just make out the edge of a little piece of white card on his base. It has a number on it, which identifies which "Big Man" card is his in the "Through the Mud and the Blood" deck.<br />
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The figure next to him is another Peter Pig figure, who was originally carrying a submachine gun. I replaced it with two small brass rods to give him a double barreled shotgun - not a military-issued weapon, but perhaps a hunting piece that I can imagine a trench raider taking with him on an assault.<br />
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There's plenty more of these in the works, and I look forward to posting more photos soon.<br />
<br />JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-43640042921553617402018-07-23T07:53:00.000-07:002018-07-23T07:53:48.776-07:00Shatterlands - Kickstarter for Second Set of FiguresI had the opportunity recently to preview (and try my paintbrush out on) the second issue of figures for "Shatterlands," the 28mm blackpowder fantasy skirmish game from <a href="https://store.stonegateforge.com/product-category/shatterlands/">Stonegate Forge</a>. The company is currently close to fully funding the Kickstarter campaign that would allow them to put these figures into general production, so you should definitely take a look at their <a href="https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1508069849/shatterlands-line-extension/description">KS page</a>.<br />
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If you're not familiar with the game, it's a really fun take on skirmish gaming, with a sort of French and Indian War feel reimagined in a fantasy setting. It has a number of innovative features, including character-specific scratch-off cards that let you track both damage and improvements for a character across a whole campaign. You don't known in advance how quickly or how significantly a character will advance in skill level until after each game, when you scratch off a given trait and see the result. Also a neat system of color-coded dice that let you see at a glance how good a particular character is at getting the job done, without having to memorize a long list of modifiers. For example, in general you want to roll low, so if you see a character is rolling a 20-sided die when shooting, rather than a 6-sided, you might not want to try to use that guy as a sharpshooter. The game is unlike any other I've played of this type, and always makes for some tense moments and a good immersive sense of story.<br />
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From a painter's point of view, this is another set of fantastic figures. The sculpting is extremely crisp, the poses are very attractive and well chosen, and the casting is top notch. Mold lines are very, very slight, and flash was nonexistent.<br />
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The extension includes 6 new figures, 3 Dumah Rangers (in colorful uniforms) and 3 Rappani (in black with bows and arrows). You have the option of equipping the Dumah Ranger on the right (in blue jacket) with either a rifle or a combination crossbow/ musket, as I have chosen here.<br />
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<br />JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-27734321185108654382018-01-13T13:14:00.002-08:002018-01-13T13:14:59.309-08:0015mm Stormtrooper Alterations - Irregular Miniatures<div>
Recently I was looking to add some dedicated close combat stormtroopers to my set of 15mm WWI German figures, guys who clearly had the look of men looking to get up close and personal as they raided an enemy trench on some moonless night. My Germans and French have been entirely taken from the excellent Peter Pig lines so far, but while Peter Pig does have some stormtroopers modeled throwing grenades, they don't have figures with shovels and pistols and body armor, which is the look I was going for. </div>
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I looked around at my options with other manufacturers, and decided to give Irregular Miniatures a try. The photos on the website seemed to have promise, and the price was right. My biggest concern though was that size-wise the new figures would not be a good match. I didn't own any pieces from them already, and couldn't find clear comparisons online between the relative sizes of the two lines, so I took a shot in the dark. </div>
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It was pretty clear on opening the package that the Irregular figures were significantly bigger than the Peter Pig ones. They were also not as well sculpted, and the variety of poses was not great, but I didn't want to give up so easily, so the following pictures show some of my efforts to bring them down to size and fit them in with the Peter Pigs. </div>
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First and foremost, I needed the Irregulars to be shorter in order to fit in. Right off the bat I cut the pedestals off their feet, and then sanded the feet down just a little bit to make them stand a little lower. </div>
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Next, the Irregular heads were significantly larger, and that was a detail that stood out even when viewing them from a bit of a distance. Men naturally vary a good deal in size, but the helmets wouldn't differ quite that much, in both size and style. So off came the Irregular heads, to be replaced by spare helmeted heads I cut off of WW2 Peter Pig figures. I didn't realize when I was doing this that I could have ordered spare heads from Peter Pig, both in steel helmets or in field caps. I probably would have gone that route had I known about the possibility at the time. </div>
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Next, I wasn't very happy with the Irregular poses. They are clearly all based on exactly the same pose, with some very minor changes made to give them different equipment. So I cut some metal away from their joints to make it easy to bend their arms in different positions. Between that and gluing their new heads in different orientations from the ones they started with, it helped give a little more variety to them. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghBjjNzNYdZ7F_v22X_E02y0zDe1k_H4CbINHCc-ScYv8Qpf1oKjLC7Cz4R_Tzv0MfzqIacJu0J6OYgFqipqVAzp2i9NwzaeT7TqecTPuNIfLOfAyPhEEGe8kjFeqCaPOQ9ngbXGzzllM/s1600/15mm+Irregular+Germans+-+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1600" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghBjjNzNYdZ7F_v22X_E02y0zDe1k_H4CbINHCc-ScYv8Qpf1oKjLC7Cz4R_Tzv0MfzqIacJu0J6OYgFqipqVAzp2i9NwzaeT7TqecTPuNIfLOfAyPhEEGe8kjFeqCaPOQ9ngbXGzzllM/s320/15mm+Irregular+Germans+-+3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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To mix things up a little more I also glued a few very simple custom items into a few hands. I made a shovel from brass and card, pistols from pieces of brass rod, and a grenade from brass and a small wooden dowel. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5xxqNCSeuiSpeeLeOy5f-k_mn8ElHc2rt030GrzNVCy-Fx_jzc6CB5qjn0ha1NFQHxcbaLh9IDdWmnXd4PmF_C-NGaX4AHftfa0ZBAYZd5MT0Radp5z9ZSXOJZBE0uqm83kuW6-gjmfI/s1600/15mm+Irregular+Germans+-+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="835" data-original-width="1600" height="166" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5xxqNCSeuiSpeeLeOy5f-k_mn8ElHc2rt030GrzNVCy-Fx_jzc6CB5qjn0ha1NFQHxcbaLh9IDdWmnXd4PmF_C-NGaX4AHftfa0ZBAYZd5MT0Radp5z9ZSXOJZBE0uqm83kuW6-gjmfI/s320/15mm+Irregular+Germans+-+4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Size-wise the figures are not a perfect match, but then even within the Peter Pig line different packs of infantry vary in size. For example, the Germans in firing poses are noticeably smaller than those charging with bayonets fixed. </div>
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The results are good enough for my purposes, and these gentlemen have already hit the table and given a good account of themselves in storming their objectives. </div>
JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-34590430902427528452017-07-26T10:14:00.000-07:002017-07-26T10:14:27.376-07:00WW1 Terrain Tiles - The ProcessWith the French and German figures shaping up nicely (if slowly!), the focus of my 15mm World War One project is shifting to terrain construction. I knew from the beginning that the terrain was going to be one of the most engrossing parts of this project, and for me the real excitement is in having a realistic degree of relief. Standard moveable terrain features that sit on top of a gaming mat are of course a lot easier to make and more convenient to store and transport, but I've had my heart set on trenches and craters that sit below the surface. That means creating my own modular terrain tiles that I can cut the features down into.<br />
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After some reflection, I've decided that one foot square tiles are the way to go. In 15mm scale each tile represents a good sized piece of terrain, and hopefully they should be relatively easy to pack away. Also, I was able to find precut styrofoam tiles on Ebay in this size easily, and for a good price. I've gone with 3/4" thick tiles because that is slightly taller than the figures.<br />
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Each terrain tile will consist of two thicknesses of styrofoam, making 1.5" high sides. That way I can cut trenches and craters into the top layer, and still have the ability for some tiles to make dugouts at an even lower level, or create extra deep recesses or even mine craters in no man's land. To make things easy on myself, I've decided to start with making no man's land tiles before attempting the more complicated task of making trenches.<br />
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In order to save materials, I decided that if a given tile doesn't include a feature that extends below the top layer, the bottom layer will not be a full sheet of styrofoam, but rather consist of "risers" that simply support and reinforce the top layer. When the plastic sides are added to the tile it should still be strong enough, and visually no different from a tile with two complete layers.<br />
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What follows is the process by which I made a tile featuring a small hill with shell holes spread around it. All gluing was done with a hot glue gun. This proved to be very useful stuff when working with styrofoam, because it dries quickly but not too quickly (unlike white glue) but doesn't dissolve the foam like super glue does. It's also strong and robust, not brittle. And it's inexpensive. All around good stuff. Obviously, one should be careful with it though. Extreme heat and stickiness are a potent combination.<br />
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Step 1: Here I have drawn a quick, rough outline of the space the hill will cover, and I've cut out some of the shell holes using a knife. I used the brims of a few different sizes of drinking cups as stencils for the holes.<br />
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Step 2: This is the under side of the tile. You can see I have added "risers" along the outside edges of the tile. These are just cut from one of the styrofoam panels I bought. The intention is that it will allow me to make more tiles than I otherwise would from the materials at hand, and save a little money. I also added one of the cut out pieces from the shell holes in the center of the tile as a support. </div>
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Step 3: I glued panels of cardboard to the under side of the shell holes. They will be built out with paper mache, so these panels will stop it from falling out the bottom. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglKmnbwLalZqQGxJCtS1JBwimGqP29KN_bURw3cjXg-p7PyX1AL9LNvxFM38O4ESS8Y-lcHOibBWFS5mJJZO1VdaL4fhTNTyI0KJ2AxuyHCC8aqpn6G5XsPJnt0D5e1Jm-jjog5OVNpnQ/s1600/r6KY0WvcRzOewPj2sVzn0Q_thumb_15d5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglKmnbwLalZqQGxJCtS1JBwimGqP29KN_bURw3cjXg-p7PyX1AL9LNvxFM38O4ESS8Y-lcHOibBWFS5mJJZO1VdaL4fhTNTyI0KJ2AxuyHCC8aqpn6G5XsPJnt0D5e1Jm-jjog5OVNpnQ/s320/r6KY0WvcRzOewPj2sVzn0Q_thumb_15d5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Step 4: Here is a view of the top of the tile. You can see how it sits on the risers. Also, I have added filler pieces of styrofoam in the area of the hill, so it does not have to be built up entirely with paper mache. That would make for a very thick mound of the stuff, which would take longer to dry. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgknxp_2bDVjsPZL_7NJPZ6AsqPKR8jywolZPd0nuQP32F-C9v010wl_6kRyFmMi5_KqB0xZr4PUQZt2VEuy4_CBPT-Ltl5lJfqVoiRiMP_uo4ErgPr_6NNAT0JiHXVwYQ1WgmMgG3p7bY/s1600/UVC5ww8RTDWmA8BVe4aL%252Bg_thumb_15d9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="665" data-original-width="1182" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgknxp_2bDVjsPZL_7NJPZ6AsqPKR8jywolZPd0nuQP32F-C9v010wl_6kRyFmMi5_KqB0xZr4PUQZt2VEuy4_CBPT-Ltl5lJfqVoiRiMP_uo4ErgPr_6NNAT0JiHXVwYQ1WgmMgG3p7bY/s320/UVC5ww8RTDWmA8BVe4aL%252Bg_thumb_15d9.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Step 5: I've added plastic styrene panels to the sides of the tile. This gives it much more strength, and I hope will protect the edges from crumbling over time, so that the panels sit more neatly together. They are 1.5" tall, and slightly more than 12" in length, so that there are no gaps. I trim overhang with an exacto blade after they are secured.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKwBKgVCvQh91m3RtPli9bxLxN0nbToirzVdg0MHr1YYhHu1lvQrmCylkdgJc7kaw4zhqITVj-R6T3crwKO9ismnSPA5OS2l4sQv9XcUIPz_Pleo3Ig_kvGRpjYR10UzYbsQjUg5HR8eM/s1600/QMyYfNOjSQGD9ZXjtTVEPA_thumb_15d8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKwBKgVCvQh91m3RtPli9bxLxN0nbToirzVdg0MHr1YYhHu1lvQrmCylkdgJc7kaw4zhqITVj-R6T3crwKO9ismnSPA5OS2l4sQv9XcUIPz_Pleo3Ig_kvGRpjYR10UzYbsQjUg5HR8eM/s320/QMyYfNOjSQGD9ZXjtTVEPA_thumb_15d8.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here is another view of the top where you can see the side panels in place, and the filler material for the hill.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA2JaocVFulPRkL4kUkbIEP58-ZytEKO3wxxibCxAa6UYN38b7-lfp2-nhZFTD-ojhLBgbfUjdYKmX8hDTcnlSpUVQ6sUDABXboLyP3IHn_qMkHElrcQvTwnS0IeB8QIUXIF3NneX90V4/s1600/JldznTRjSbO14vQOK1%2525nYQ_thumb_15dd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA2JaocVFulPRkL4kUkbIEP58-ZytEKO3wxxibCxAa6UYN38b7-lfp2-nhZFTD-ojhLBgbfUjdYKmX8hDTcnlSpUVQ6sUDABXboLyP3IHn_qMkHElrcQvTwnS0IeB8QIUXIF3NneX90V4/s320/JldznTRjSbO14vQOK1%2525nYQ_thumb_15dd.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Step 6: I've used Sculptamold to build up the hill and the shell holes. This is a sort of fine-ground paper mache powder to which you simply add water, stir and slop it on the base. It's easy to work with and easy to clean up, and it dries plenty strong enough for my purposes.<br />
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I fill the shell holes with the Sculptamold and then excavate them with my fingers, building up a little parapet around the rim. The hill was covered over with a generous amount of the stuff, and then I pressed the bottom of a round glass into it to make craters. I built those up too with my fingers. I formed a few uneven balls of Sculptamold to represent boulders thrown loose by the shells, and stuck those down on the surface.<br />
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(A note on craters: you have two competing interests here. On the one hand you want them to look realistic, which will generally mean rounded, like a ball was pressed in to the earth. On the other hand you want models to be able to sit nicely inside, which will mean a more flat bottom and straight sides, like a cylinder was pressed in. For my part, I've tried to aim for the middle ground, starting with a rounded shape and subtly flattening out bottom and sides to an extent. )<br />
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Note that I didn't bother to cover the whole tile with the paper mache. It's fine to have some flat, un-cratered spaces. In fact I will need some open spaces to add a few modular pieces on top, like shattered, burnt-up clumps of trees, a downed airplane, that sort of thing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinCmdeKQXixtNErpcgdn0BurPVD9MyAsgwN7cZWLfnWhflRDXxQ6yh-K1hD-oVb1ctWc8kVeHsQHFhsKmp9hYjBCFeOpf4LBjgWr9ZFV96nV_uqIM8i6DVGK4zW8oLw0IrOsHlsCoulbU/s1600/GEP9%2525Kk6RcKRh5VUklXZog_thumb_15dc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinCmdeKQXixtNErpcgdn0BurPVD9MyAsgwN7cZWLfnWhflRDXxQ6yh-K1hD-oVb1ctWc8kVeHsQHFhsKmp9hYjBCFeOpf4LBjgWr9ZFV96nV_uqIM8i6DVGK4zW8oLw0IrOsHlsCoulbU/s320/GEP9%2525Kk6RcKRh5VUklXZog_thumb_15dc.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here is a profile shot of the tile to show some of the relief. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNLsSF-BQvvmiE5DdGw2w9wjniRrlPp0HHk4c5YJu32ma1zre67h7nwlF6R466shhaaVouo5-YEwLpwMedKRb81sW8LVQgRI6LnKx3s2i6b4tajkajwci9jfBIohfQa2jIfd1XFsGehI0/s1600/QCQJrTaPQXWRpdtgQho0FA_thumb_15df.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNLsSF-BQvvmiE5DdGw2w9wjniRrlPp0HHk4c5YJu32ma1zre67h7nwlF6R466shhaaVouo5-YEwLpwMedKRb81sW8LVQgRI6LnKx3s2i6b4tajkajwci9jfBIohfQa2jIfd1XFsGehI0/s320/QCQJrTaPQXWRpdtgQho0FA_thumb_15df.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And here is a close up of the surface so you can see the texture of the Sculptamold.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLJYdASS2VKXFi3zT47vx6FgVQj0AXb8HdLKvsZaonWLpUxZGhhocstOf6rKJ9jOaD4LBKuHGuKNSEdPbOnypqnR_nXEOSjDbDD55Jax4NsI6aU3-BiaYAb_CIWWsaVWZR9_PshIScSjo/s1600/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_15da.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1182" data-original-width="665" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLJYdASS2VKXFi3zT47vx6FgVQj0AXb8HdLKvsZaonWLpUxZGhhocstOf6rKJ9jOaD4LBKuHGuKNSEdPbOnypqnR_nXEOSjDbDD55Jax4NsI6aU3-BiaYAb_CIWWsaVWZR9_PshIScSjo/s320/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_15da.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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Step 7: After the Sculptamold is completely dry (a process that takes one to two days with an electric fan blowing over it, depending on thickness) I sprayed the tile with a generous coat of Woodland Scenics Scenic Cement and sprinkled a mixture of sand and fine gravel over the entire surface. After giving it a few minutes I turn it over to lightly shake off the excess (which I then gather to reuse). It's okay that the covering is not completely even. </div>
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I also add in a few larger pieces of gravel to represent larger rocks tossed loose by the explosions. I glue those on with Elmers white glue. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy9fJAZ4-n72cGzCRPucLEq6sEmg0MgYD_60q4wG99canc68FoQIu0LhgnmPyz4obTwrj-_cpFGdP2kuyKxGO8J_7xMTvw3Z8FkOd9d8uBESqzuKB5mEiTt7jL4LH78xsnn7e1YXLKAUc/s1600/xOIt9pbWSD6n6zbXtkrlpA_thumb_15e0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy9fJAZ4-n72cGzCRPucLEq6sEmg0MgYD_60q4wG99canc68FoQIu0LhgnmPyz4obTwrj-_cpFGdP2kuyKxGO8J_7xMTvw3Z8FkOd9d8uBESqzuKB5mEiTt7jL4LH78xsnn7e1YXLKAUc/s320/xOIt9pbWSD6n6zbXtkrlpA_thumb_15e0.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Step 8: Next the entire surface and sides are coated in brown paint - which takes a while, because it can be tricky getting in all the nooks and crannies created by the paper mache and the sand and gravel covering. I use Golden Acrylics brand Burnt Umber Light, which is available in large bottles from a local art supply store. You'll need a large volume of paint, and I would recommend against trying to make it go further by slightly diluting it. It will take more time and coverage to build up opacity, and if it is watered down too much it can loosen the glue that is holding the sand in place.<br />
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You can see I also added a few plastic tree stumps. These are Woodland Scenics tree armatures, cut up into irregular pieces and glued to the surface before the brown paint was applied.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGjsk_hFcvCnATIaWK2ixt1j89iFeq9BwQJKkgjd7ksLVi-ncm1CAqZMDR5act3b0C833MbOIu2g-KhdY3_4jQvBcXQh3yt10_GEwrcGoT50KzeioMJShEZXC8MPew8wocFoXFtL7WF-w/s1600/bYajNpgRRqKUdAHTgqGanQ_thumb_15de.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGjsk_hFcvCnATIaWK2ixt1j89iFeq9BwQJKkgjd7ksLVi-ncm1CAqZMDR5act3b0C833MbOIu2g-KhdY3_4jQvBcXQh3yt10_GEwrcGoT50KzeioMJShEZXC8MPew8wocFoXFtL7WF-w/s320/bYajNpgRRqKUdAHTgqGanQ_thumb_15de.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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After the base coat is throughly dry, I do a lot of dry-brushing with a palette of brows and tans. I go a little lighter around the edges of the craters so they stand out a little. </div>
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Rocks are painted a light gray, and then washed with Army Painter Strong Tone, a dark brown wash. Plastic tree bits get a few coats of the Strong Tone. </div>
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And here is the finished tile:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivLRstbM4HzBaqkFXATIXZV2FPZbB5OqFTNpPTOq13SWNP6rymbw09KQjlpw__Vxv1l6mwYFUM64ofuKY1K9tbMwlzcxrJzWOZWwwpDoZT9kjXe28oGnKgcCUJytXKCIvSwmYVuFPeFAY/s1600/bIfPRiX1Soedd0XMUhEGtA_thumb_15e3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1029" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivLRstbM4HzBaqkFXATIXZV2FPZbB5OqFTNpPTOq13SWNP6rymbw09KQjlpw__Vxv1l6mwYFUM64ofuKY1K9tbMwlzcxrJzWOZWwwpDoZT9kjXe28oGnKgcCUJytXKCIvSwmYVuFPeFAY/s320/bIfPRiX1Soedd0XMUhEGtA_thumb_15e3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcJkeiQI5mD6gH1Lgyvz4tHPW9VyS2QmTKTNvTqfvU2mstLTfgu8z7I6RafURuk5sZdAnt7Ue7ZrmLU1YtrUOpVY4uWfi1v2QAvQrNDcxLoi6l35V8os9_XrvxfhyphenhyphenGnNWWmcWEO0xFWZQ/s1600/3p%2525KiDd4QAqqYrGNMd%2525J%252Bg_thumb_15e2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="674" data-original-width="1166" height="184" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcJkeiQI5mD6gH1Lgyvz4tHPW9VyS2QmTKTNvTqfvU2mstLTfgu8z7I6RafURuk5sZdAnt7Ue7ZrmLU1YtrUOpVY4uWfi1v2QAvQrNDcxLoi6l35V8os9_XrvxfhyphenhyphenGnNWWmcWEO0xFWZQ/s320/3p%2525KiDd4QAqqYrGNMd%2525J%252Bg_thumb_15e2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR_umNJY8kkxxU1TbSyvARcujS2r_nvsQZxg8QrmeKDVmgGwvaCpT5MOJs7vqXudm8LSOtX_8a_B4C38zhrlHIM32ZS99QMRLaEdZgeNLTHdgwVr0frPuXiSEkMaeA58PcxrWtLKIXUtQ/s1600/5cCwFlBNSGeAfdBOsEaivg_thumb_15e4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="583" data-original-width="1348" height="138" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR_umNJY8kkxxU1TbSyvARcujS2r_nvsQZxg8QrmeKDVmgGwvaCpT5MOJs7vqXudm8LSOtX_8a_B4C38zhrlHIM32ZS99QMRLaEdZgeNLTHdgwVr0frPuXiSEkMaeA58PcxrWtLKIXUtQ/s320/5cCwFlBNSGeAfdBOsEaivg_thumb_15e4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here is another tile I did (my first "proof of concept" tile). This one doesn't have any added elevation, just craters.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8dGhj8dwR6ryrwJJZ3RTb2unGO_HDyr3To3m___w6ZNhV-Hriv7nTlu6-4hgHDMnqh1YtUYYC4C3oJ7RdHABVS0VKy5-ghYK40PX8rtBcAmx9WiBLtFWtnfLcS1tLR9YGK3gxeB5rTwU/s1600/Pc91oF5vQMSIIoL5GhWmAw_thumb_15e7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="757" data-original-width="1038" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8dGhj8dwR6ryrwJJZ3RTb2unGO_HDyr3To3m___w6ZNhV-Hriv7nTlu6-4hgHDMnqh1YtUYYC4C3oJ7RdHABVS0VKy5-ghYK40PX8rtBcAmx9WiBLtFWtnfLcS1tLR9YGK3gxeB5rTwU/s320/Pc91oF5vQMSIIoL5GhWmAw_thumb_15e7.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here you can see how the tiles join together.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIXHkxLgRrEcXNuCURsleYncp03TeR1VqFCvXldY7WQGXhV4FWqye3WWRQksCGhkuJJBjwn8_z-YH_vdWSp1-Vo-Zex3k10XdRVdrID0toPt66Qt3fozMfdm8-HAWzCyttpFnFzzQbs4Q/s1600/U3gjXzyGRF6A8zxlAN8dFA_thumb_15e9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="627" data-original-width="1253" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIXHkxLgRrEcXNuCURsleYncp03TeR1VqFCvXldY7WQGXhV4FWqye3WWRQksCGhkuJJBjwn8_z-YH_vdWSp1-Vo-Zex3k10XdRVdrID0toPt66Qt3fozMfdm8-HAWzCyttpFnFzzQbs4Q/s320/U3gjXzyGRF6A8zxlAN8dFA_thumb_15e9.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And here is a low angle shot of the two of them so the elevation is apparent:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiJcw7OHSyRHseF3hc2dBU1I-JfuMI6pIJ8t7LQ4HnySl7k0puGtLvK8A_P3P4yzuCGMd85QNEG7q9zG9u1-u4g-gabU3jWALkjh25TTXWnGu53hJbMCKhDo1rMtHd6eZHn5IF2mQ2_7A/s1600/%25253i5dWGGRJa8TVXFdclWZQ_thumb_15ea.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="468" data-original-width="1600" height="93" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiJcw7OHSyRHseF3hc2dBU1I-JfuMI6pIJ8t7LQ4HnySl7k0puGtLvK8A_P3P4yzuCGMd85QNEG7q9zG9u1-u4g-gabU3jWALkjh25TTXWnGu53hJbMCKhDo1rMtHd6eZHn5IF2mQ2_7A/s320/%25253i5dWGGRJa8TVXFdclWZQ_thumb_15ea.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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No sooner is the terrain prepared, than rival patrols are already trying to assert dominance over the ground.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQA1Kui6p-6c2KA1gHFjKPuEkHr0WR-2ZHL7RNZ-4oyF8M9p0lc_JPozowXZtFhPhnzYdwLfe-fjs3MYr1e_7eX4Xe0pOlpli9tyo5SwwrM2fEstt0fT27goQO_6ZCSLApVQV2TuCixzo/s1600/vKNeQrQbQxaABufqzFQHHg_thumb_15ed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="472" data-original-width="1600" height="94" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQA1Kui6p-6c2KA1gHFjKPuEkHr0WR-2ZHL7RNZ-4oyF8M9p0lc_JPozowXZtFhPhnzYdwLfe-fjs3MYr1e_7eX4Xe0pOlpli9tyo5SwwrM2fEstt0fT27goQO_6ZCSLApVQV2TuCixzo/s320/vKNeQrQbQxaABufqzFQHHg_thumb_15ed.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-10086853229185834012017-05-07T17:34:00.000-07:002017-07-28T11:21:53.811-07:0015mm WW1 Germans - Peter PigWhen the 15mm French figures I've been working on hit the table, they will be staring across no man's land at these guys. These are Peter Pig's 15mm German line, specifically those in the mid to late war style steel helmets. As such they can represent German soldiers from mid 1916 onward.<br />
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Here is the unit as it exists so far:<br />
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Infantry charging with bayonets:<br />
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Infantry in firing positions:<br />
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And a team of 'bombers':<br />
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For the Mg 08 I drilled a small hole in the flash shield and added a small piece of brass wire to represent the end of the barrel (as cast, the model ends with the guard itself). I also shortened the ammo belt of the assistant so that he could sit closer to the gun and fit on the base size I had chosen. The gun is cast as one piece with the gunner, and there is no hollow space between the legs of the gun stand. But if you paint the 'empty' space black and carefully pick out the positive detail I think the effect is nice.<br />
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It was a very fast and simple 'conversion' to add a small piece of brass to the top of one figure's rifle to turn him into a sniper. In the TFL rules Through the Mud and the Blood designated individuals can operate as normal riflemen until they are detailed off to operate as snipers, at which point special rules kick in for them.<br />
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And here are the Big Men. Because this is one of Peter Pig's earlier lines, there is not a separate pack of NCOs/ officers (though there is a set of 'high command' figures). Each infantry set includes a commander figure.<br />
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<br />JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-90130382700544932732017-04-21T13:42:00.004-07:002017-04-21T13:42:32.512-07:00More 15mm WW1 FrenchThe 15mm First World War project continues, and I've added a few more figures to the French platoon. After the disastrous encounters of 1914 and 1915, French infantry platoons (like those of their allies and enemies) saw the development of many specialist roles to allow the unit to employ a variety of new weapons. Fortunately the excellent Peter Pig WW1 lines give you a lot of great options in modeling these.<br />
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Every platoon will need a lieutenant and a couple of sergeants. Without their leadership even the best-trained men will falter.<br />
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Bombers are men with a talent for grenades, a very useful skill set on the modern battlefield. Their job is to get in close while their comrades suppress the enemy, deliver a deadly volley of grenades onto the entrenched enemy, and move in to the wreckage.<br />
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To engage targets at longer range while the bombers get in to position, picked members of the platoon employ rifle grenades. The technology has come a long way since the beginning of the war, and these guys are significantly less likely to blow themselves up than they might have been a year or two ago. Honest.<br />
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Of course we're going to need plenty more ordinary riflemen too:<br />
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To lay down some really heavy fire, you could do worse than a Hotchkiss heavy machine gun:<br />
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<br />JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-69396396552606892872017-04-11T14:59:00.000-07:002017-04-15T12:47:11.973-07:0015mm First World War French - Peter PigI recently came down with a very strong impulse to start a 1st World War project, and after deciding on 15mm scale I fell into Peter Pig's offerings in a big way. I loved the look of the figures, and their French line in particular is awesome.<br />
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My goal is to build two platoons worth to start, one mid war French and one mid war German. I intend to use these with the TFL ruleset "Through the Mud and the Blood" which I've been told works best with one to two platoons per side.<br />
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So here is the first French squad - a corporal, a chauchat gunner and his assistant, and 6 riflemen. The figures themselves are a joy to paint, with lots of character and great poses. I like the proportions, and I was pleasantly surprised with the strength of the metal, which makes the bayonets more durable than I had expected.<br />
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Eventually the platoon will sport one more squad similar to this one, a team of bombers, and one of rifle grenades.<br />
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Here in isolation are the corporal, the chauchat gunner and his assistant:<br />
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Here are just the riflemen, the backbone of the French army:<br />
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And here is a look at their backs to see the details of their gear. Honestly I probably didn't need to bother painting the backs, as I am confident they will never be shown to the enemy anyway.<br />
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<br />JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-70531118784216788372017-01-27T10:41:00.001-08:002017-01-27T11:29:44.542-08:00USS Washington - Langton 1:1200Here is another of Langton Miniatures' very small offerings, this one the 20 gun galley Washington, built in 1776.<br />
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To quote the Nautical Research Guild's summary of the history of this vessel:</div>
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<i>"The Continental Galley Washington was a lateen-rigged, two-masted row galley built in the autumn of 1776 on Lake Champlain at Skenesboro N.Y. On October 6 1776, she joined the small fleet established and commanded by Brigadier General Benedict Arnold. Washington was among Arnold's ships that anchored in the narrow body of water between the western shore of Lake Champlain and Valcour Island to await the expected British move. On October 11th the British attacked from leeward. As a result of the battle Washington suffered the heaviest damage to the American fleet.<br /><br />"Arnold regrouped his fleet and slipped past the British fleet in a desperate attempt to escape. However, they caught the retreating Continental force on October 13th, at Split Rock near Crown Point. Arnold managed to beach and destroy four of the galleys and his own flagship, Congress, while most of the remaining ships escaped upriver. Washington, at the rear of the van, was captured by the enemy; she struck her colors, as Arnold reported later, "... after receiving a few broadsides." After her capture Washington was repaired and put into British service on the lake. It was during this period that her lines were taken off."</i><br />
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You can find the NRG's description and an amazing guide to scratch-building a model of the galley (by Jeff Staudt) here:<br />
http://www.thenrg.org/the-galley-washington.php<br />
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And here is Langton's 1:1200 model:<br />
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Here for size comparison the model is seen with several other Langton kits. To her left is a small schooner with a pivot gun, to her right a gunboat. To the rear is a 24 gun frigate.<br />
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JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-88534077699023890692017-01-23T16:34:00.001-08:002017-01-23T16:34:36.752-08:00Warlord Games 28mm PraetoriansHere is a unit of 28mm Praetorian Guardsmen that I've just completed for a commission. These are some of Warlord Games' plastic offerings, and I think they are very attractive figures. Each one is comprised of 5 parts: body, weapon arm, shield, head and crest. Detail is pretty crisp, and there are some nice touches, like the 5 different faces included for the regulars. There is also a new arm pose not included in the regular legionary box set - an upright javelin held close to the body.<br />
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My only complaint about this set is the shield decals. The graphics themselves are perfectly fine, but in every other way they are extremely frustrating. They have too much "flash" of clear film around the edges, they had to be soaked too long to remove them from the backing paper (I tore several even after soaking more than 45 seconds) and - probably because of that - adhesion to the shield is extremely weak. They started curling off immediately, and I had to develop a routine where right after applying the two halves to one shield I would immediately coat it in matt varnish to get it to stick. It made for a slow, excruciating process, which is not how decals have to be. I've only had good experiences with other brands.<br />
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Still, they do make for a nice looking unit, and are an economical option.<br />
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<br />JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-80385427432915443772017-01-17T08:37:00.000-08:002017-01-17T08:41:09.969-08:00La Vengeance - GHQ 1:1200Here is a model that I finished some time ago, but am only now getting around to posting: GHQ's 1:1200 La Vengeance, a 40 gun frigate.<br />
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Vengeance was a heavy frigate launched in 1794. She is best remembered for her duels with HMS Mermaid (1796 - inconclusive), HMS Seine (August 1800 - at which point she was captured by the British), but especially - for American audiences - for her bloody, indecisive duel with USS Constellation in February of 1800, during the so called Quasi War between France and the young United States.<br />
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I've rebuilt the bowsprit out of brass rod, mounted on a Langton base with a wood and a magnetic layer under it, used Langton brass ratlines, and rigged with nylon bristles.<br />
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<br />JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-50441502740698927902016-12-07T13:07:00.000-08:002016-12-07T13:07:32.811-08:001/2400 Tumbling Dice First Rate Ship - War Artisan GraphicsI was pretty happy with the way the War Artisan graphics look on 1/2400 Tumbling Dice models, so I have gone ahead and done up a second ship in that manner.<br />
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This is Tumbling Dice's 1/2400 1st rate ship of the line, with War Artisan graphics rescaled for application directly to the hull. Again, it's not quite as simple as scaling down from 1/600 to 1/2400, because the War Artisan graphics are more accurate in their proportions than the Tumbling Dice models. The two dimensions had to be scaled independently of each other to fit the miniature correctly. But once that is done the process is pretty straightforward.<br />
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Again I have replaced the topgallant masts and bowsprit with brass wire, so that they are much thinner than the cast metal. And I have rigged with nylon paintbrush bristles, just as I would for a 1/1200 model.<br />
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Again, you can find the War Artisan graphics at the address below. Definitely worth checking out, and you can download a free sample kit to try your hand at them first.<br />
http://www.warartisan.com/<br />
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The stern graphics, visible here, have their own separate scaling. The Tumbling Dice models are rather chunky in the stern...<br />
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And here she is alongside the 74 gun 3rd rate, done in the same manner.<br />
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<br />JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-59393595061348773932016-11-16T08:51:00.001-08:002016-11-16T09:05:17.266-08:001:2400 Tumbling Dice 74 Gun Ship - With War Artisan GraphicsEvery now and then I return to a scale I've only dabbled in so far. 1:2400 scale ships are a great gaming scale, but Ive never really been satisfied with my attempts to paint them in the past. It's always frustrated me that I couldn't create a nice looking checkerboard pattern at that scale, no matter how I've tried.<br />
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But recently I was working on some of War Artisan's excellent paper ship kits, when it occurred to me that they might be the solution to my frustrations in this scale. The kits are purchased as digital files, ready to print, which means you can scale them however you like in whatever graphics software you use.<br />
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I scaled the 74 gun kit down to 1:2400, then cut out the side panels and glued them directly to a Tumbling Dice model. Actually, I had to first alter the length and width ratios of the graphics, as War Artisan's kits are much more accurate in their dimension than the Tumbling Dice models. The stern pieces needed a totally different set of ratios, as they are very oversized on the metal miniatures.<br />
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I've been much more pleased with these results than any I have achieved with my own brushwork in this scale so far. It was a simple process to scale, cut and mount the graphics on the miniatures, and I'll definitely be doing this on more 1:2400 models.<br />
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I'd encourage anyone interested in the subject matter, whatever scale you may enjoy using, to check out War Artisan's catalogue of ship kits. They are extremely well designed, and very reasonably priced. When you purchase a kit you can print up as many models as you'd like, which makes them economically very efficient. And each kit comes with multiple color schemes, letting you add a lot of variety to your fleets. You can find them here:<br />
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<a href="http://www.warartisan.com/">http://www.warartisan.com/</a><br />
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And here is the Tumbling Dice 74 gun ship with War Artisan graphics. Rigging is done with nylon paintbrush bristles, just like with the 1:1200 scale kit's I've done. I also cut off the uppermost masts and the bowsprit and replaced them with brass rods, which are more in scale.<br />
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<br />JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-21630150349629087062016-11-09T08:43:00.000-08:002016-11-09T10:15:53.810-08:00Shatterlands - New Fantasy Skirmish Game from Stonegate Forge<br />
I recently had the pleasure of painting up some miniatures for Stonegate Forge's upcoming skirmish game Shatterlands. The figures were sculpted digitally by the clearly very talented Bobby Jackson, and produced by Iron Wind Metals. I was extremely impressed by the level of detail, the very attractive proportions, and the excellent casting. Stonegate Forge is a small family run company (though with a lot of experience in the industry - Mark Rubin's credentials go way back to his Ral Partha days) and they clearly prioritized quality in the production of the figures.<br />
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The setting of the game is the fantasy world of Atelon, in which two peoples with radically different cultures and ways of life have clashed for generations. One is a technologically sophisticated people, the other a more fanatical society of magic-using forest dwellers. However in the territory between their homelands where they clash - the "Shatterlands" - neither the most sophisticated technology of the one nor the magic of the other functions as they are accustomed to. The result is a "black powder" fantasy world where the struggle takes on the dimensions of a French and Indian War skirmish game.<br />
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The really distinctive aspect of game play is in the character cards that represent each figure. Each character's ability in any given task is represented by a color-coded die of few or many sides. As you are generally trying to roll low in the game, a more capable character will use fewer-sided dice, making it easier for him to accomplish a task. As the character takes wounds or stress or becomes exhausted, he is penalized by having to use more or bigger dice. Wounds are attributed to specific areas of the body, and have specific effects on abilities. He took a major wound to the leg? He's not running anywhere for the remainder of the scenario, and may not even be on his feet any more, though he may still have a role to play.<br />
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The designers had the very interesting idea of using pre-printed cards with scratch off elements that allow most of the in-game wounds to be temporary matters that heal when the scenario is done, while letting more serious injuries become permanent changes to the character card. Experience-based improvements are also permanent. So the implications for campaign play are pretty powerful. If you take good care of your characters they will improve with experience. Bad luck or bloody-minded decision making will take a heavy toll on them.<br />
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The game is currently being kickstarted (it was demoed at the Fall In convention in Lancaster PA this past weekend) and you can learn more about it here:<br />
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https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1508069849/shatterlands-skirmish-warfare-in-the-banakur-fores<br />
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<br />JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-49749248578533388892016-06-29T12:43:00.002-07:002016-06-29T12:43:41.341-07:006mm Adler AWI and SceneryI've slowly been adding models to the 6mm AWI Southern Campaign project, and while I was painting today I had the urge to set some up for a photo shoot - that is, to distract myself with an unnecessary bit of fun. I laid out some buildings and terrain and added some of the figure models, and here is the result.<br />
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The buildings are from Dave Graffam models, which I love. They come as pdf files, and many of them have lots of different texture options so you can create a variety of pieces, just by making different selections in Adobe Acrobat. You can scale them however you like, and even in 6mm they are easy to assemble and look great. I like to paint the edges to blend in, so the white card stock sides don't show, and then cover them in matt varnish to protect them and prevent shine. They are very affordable, and for the price of one digital file you can print as many as you like. They are very lightweight, but in 6mm the strength of the card makes them still pretty robust.<br />
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The roads are from Battlefield Terrain Concepts. The fences are from Paper Terrain. The trees and fields I bought from folks in the flea market at Cold Wars, but I'm afraid I've forgotten their names!<br />
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A company of the 1st Maryland marching down a country lane.<br />
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Here some troopers from the 3rd Continental Light Dragoons charge down the road.<br />
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Continentals in hunting shirts march to the fence line.<br />
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Some South Carolina militia take up position behind a fence.<br />
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And here two guns have been set up to cover the crossroads.<br />
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<br />JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6389508956343110251.post-68616714356406725012016-03-30T18:42:00.000-07:002016-04-07T05:21:22.034-07:0036 Gun Frigate HMS Hamadryad - GHQ 1:1200This is GHQ's model of the 36 gun frigate HMS Hamadryad.<br />
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Hamadryad was originally the Spanish-built frigate Ninfa, launched at Minorca in 1795. In April of 1797 she narrowly managed to avoid sailing directly into the clutches of the British fleet blockading Cadiz, but not without being detected. Ninfa and another frigate were pursued by the 74 gun HMS Irresistible and the 36 gun HMS Emerald, and sought to anchor in a protected bay where they expected the British ships would not follow them. They did so to no avail, however, and after a little over an hour of fighting Ninfa had struck, and the other frigate was run aground and later sunk. Ninfa was taken in to British service as HMS Hamadryad, but hers was to be a short career. On Christmas day of the very same year she foundered in a storm in Algiers bay.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyENcBJBx-nDzncDaZLAgP-taAvVxcFibMr25vWcwe3KYziRDaNCgaH4_YyPbZLlwECsSb6VXmrs-949qUl5tdHzVmqkPwrtj-eiaf7yg7VWzPq_hRvh1cljOh5dZwWZ3nz6dfgJwbfHw/s1600/DSC_8662.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyENcBJBx-nDzncDaZLAgP-taAvVxcFibMr25vWcwe3KYziRDaNCgaH4_YyPbZLlwECsSb6VXmrs-949qUl5tdHzVmqkPwrtj-eiaf7yg7VWzPq_hRvh1cljOh5dZwWZ3nz6dfgJwbfHw/s320/DSC_8662.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here Hamadryad is seen between a 20 gun Corvette on the left and a 32 gun Amazon-class frigate on the right.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5apjm6QvVja4Dyq19PG9MR7f75ihVykyGUm8UU9t8yYIPVkZOaGfK2UKiWosLwOErFjg5XWtqXPXs4IxLLrPhlNFzoY7e37ryLUOnae0nFylnQ8jrvvqqWz8MfFtfDCAAlOIgrLa-drY/s1600/DSC_8654.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="107" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5apjm6QvVja4Dyq19PG9MR7f75ihVykyGUm8UU9t8yYIPVkZOaGfK2UKiWosLwOErFjg5XWtqXPXs4IxLLrPhlNFzoY7e37ryLUOnae0nFylnQ8jrvvqqWz8MfFtfDCAAlOIgrLa-drY/s320/DSC_8654.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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An extreme close up - a 32 gun frigate very close on the port side<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBxgB1hbkjAu7rb7hmU_1FjBgJWYluHTNS0IFvF1GTwG3_w-BJbteUpx1BKulTh7nlfkea7wIO92Uap5wLZe-VRNoawd0xAsQrIUaRcPIMltHKgwD39gvaCFyi_GcmV6XIxTp0YXdETmA/s1600/DSC_8660.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="305" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBxgB1hbkjAu7rb7hmU_1FjBgJWYluHTNS0IFvF1GTwG3_w-BJbteUpx1BKulTh7nlfkea7wIO92Uap5wLZe-VRNoawd0xAsQrIUaRcPIMltHKgwD39gvaCFyi_GcmV6XIxTp0YXdETmA/s320/DSC_8660.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />JTWhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112647490474385799noreply@blogger.com3